Stuart George

Indigo dine

In Restaurants/wine and food on November 16, 2010 at 12:53 pm

On Wednesday 10 November I was invited to dinner at The Square Mile Kitchen and Lounge, the restaurant of the Hotel Indigo near Tower Hill.

The hotel’s name is curious because my first impression was of red rather than voilet. Anyway, it’s all very bright and trendy and hard to distinguish from the other swanky places that I visit on my wanderings around London.

I started with mixed grilled vegetables, which was fine apart from the too-crunchy asparagus. (Apologies for the dark photos – I use my phone camera for these things and modern London hotels persist with low lighting).

I love Osso Bucco. The best I’ve ever had comes from Le Querce in, of all places, Brockley (SE23). Feeling a bit peckish, I ordered Square Miles’s take on this classic Milanese dish. It had lots of tomato in the sauce, which I like but I am under doctor’s orders to stay of tomatoes to calm my bouts of sciatica. I found the meat a bit tough and fatty – but I ate it all.

We drank a bottle – several bottles, actually – of 2005 Terre del Barolo (the basic cuvée I guess). I can think of few things more pleasurable than eating Osso Bucco and drinking Barolo. But I found this wine very dry and woody – indeed, I suspect that it was tainted by TCA. It wasn’t right.

Desert was Tiramisu “destruction”, with all the components laid out separately rather than as a cake. It was original and very yummy.

Square Mile is clearly aimed at business visitors and travellers – it’s not likely to be a destination place for Londoners. But it’s worth a visit just for that Tiramisu.


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