Stuart George

Su and Sardinia: Su Sazzagoni in Hackney

In Restaurants/wine and food on April 1, 2010 at 2:13 pm

Thanks to the good offices of Martin Kyran at Foal Brand Grooming, I was able to visit recently Su Sazzagoni restaurant in Lauriston Road, Hackney, with my friend Jane Egginton.

Opened in January 2009, Su Sazzagoni is a Sardinian trattoria in trendy Victoria Park Village. As well as the restaurant there is also a delicatessen and bar for people who want to enjoy a quick coffee or bite to eat. Pizzas are available to takeaway at very reasonable cost. All very civilised for the East End!

Don Domè Prosecco was served as an aperitif. It was simple, clean and short – a typical Prosecco. I would not pay £32 for a bottle of this.

For an appetiser we were given pane carasau, a typical Sardinian flatbread, which was very tasty. A fruity and earthy Cantina Santadi Grotta Rossa made from Carignan grapes was served with the mixed antipasti of carpaccio di manzo in truffle oil; salsiccia (sausage); salami; and scamorza – a cow’s milk cheese – with peppers.

The primo piatto was calamari ripieni, fresh squid filled with a seafood pesto of parsley and bread-crumbs. Jane and I agreed that it needed to be a bit more tender.

The secondo piatto was very good. Maccarronisi de busa al ragù di cinghiale, or Sardinian-style macaroni with wild boar ragù, was rustic and filling and good with the Grotta Rossa. Cantina Santadi is a large co-operative with a good reputation but £25 seemed quite pricey for this wine.

By now I was struggling. I had been in Italy a few days beforehand and was still recuperating from tasting 400 Barberas. But the dishes kept coming.

For a terzo piatto, we ate – or tried to eat – fregola ai frutti di mare (seafood fregola), essentially a seafood risotto but made from a particular Sardinian pasta that is more like couscous. The seafoods included calamari, prawns, langoustines and mussels, with a pinch of chilli for some spice – and plenty of salt.

Cantina Sociale di Dorgali’s Norìolo red wine was also tasted. Made from 80% Cannonau (aka Grenache) and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, it was sweeter and more generous than the Grotta Rossa.

A piatto quarto was served! Culurgionis all’Ogliastrina is like ravioli: Sardinian dumplings filled with potatoes, cheese and mint and topped with a tomato sauce.

And they still weren’t finished with us… The sixth and final dish was malloreddus alla campidanese, shell-shaped Sardinian pasta with sausages. The Is Argiolas Vermentino from Cantine Argiolas was poured with the malloreddus, though I would have preferred a red wine here and to have drunk white with the antipasti and calamari ripieni. The wine was dry, crisp and had some pear aromas. Again, it seemed a bit expensive at £30.

Not content that we had tried enough of the menu, a tagliata di tonno all’isolana, or charcoal-grilled tuna steak in a crust of poppy seeds, landed on our table. It was a bit too grilled for our liking.

Finally, I was allowed to retire from the main courses and have some desert to perk me up for the journey back home. The ice creams are bought-in rather than made on the premises but the chocolate gelato we had was nice enough, especially with a glass or two of mirto di Sardegna, a liqueur made from myrtle. Not as bad as it sounds!

As guests of Martin, we were given rather too much to try and it is difficult to put a price on what a typical dinner here would cost. But I would guess that a shared starter and two or three shared mains would be about £50. Two bottles of wine would be about £50-60, so dinner for two comes in at about £100. That does seem quite a lot but a comparable meal in the West End would perhaps be twice that much and the service would be more surly.

I have been to Sardinia only once and was struck by how different it was from the mainland – much slower and gentler. In his travelogue Sea and Sardinia, D.H. Lawrence wrote that Sardinia was “strange and rather wonderful, not a bit like Italy.”

With Tuscan-style restaurants ubiquitous in London and elsewhere, it’s good to see something a bit different from Italy. Bravi!

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  1. Excellent stuff – well done, need to do mine.

    Janex

  2. I enjoyed reading this Stuart. I plan to go on Tuesday so it has given me a few pointers about what (not) to order :). The wine sounds quite expensive, so I’ll keep an eye out for that.

  3. […] Su and Sardinia: Su Sazzagoni in Hackney « Worcester Sauce […]

  4. This is one of the most welcoming and consistently good restaurants I have been to. A Hackney gem

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